11/29/20 to 12/2/20: Moving Into the Lowcountry

I'm not sure if there is a designated border for the beginning of South Carolina's Lowcountry, but for me it starts where I begin to see Spanish moss hanging plentifully in the live oaks. Certainly McClellanville with its bounty of moss-draped trees could serve as an entry point. The narrow cuts of the ICW that follow are often lined with mossy oaks before flowing into the golden marshlands that confirm, without a doubt, arrival in the Lowcountry. Nothing here stands up and shouts. Rather, it is the quiet beauty that holds your attention. 

We expected a nasty turn in the weather and timed our arrival in Charleston just ahead of the transition. Already the skies were spitting rain and Charleston Harbor was unpleasantly choppy. But the winds were still acceptable as we found a last spot on the face dock at the Harborage at Ashley Marina. 

We enjoy Charleston. We spent three months at Ashley on our first ICW trip so it almost feels like coming home when we return. But honestly, and not surprising I guess, it felt so different this time 'round. The marina was packed with boats but it and the town are quiet, as if in waiting mode for life to return to normal. There was none of the bubbling, almost giggly energy that normally permeates the popular historic district with its busy restaurants and King Street shops and galleries. Add to that, the temps were unseasonably cold, in the low 40s, with that nasty wind adding insult to injury. We wandered some of our favorite streets but look forward to coming back when the world has righted.

Sunset at our anchorage on Mosquito Creek. 

I love what the setting sun does for photos. Ashley Marina in Charleston.

Charleston’s hidden gardens are always a pleasure. Look down a lane, through a fence, around a gate and be surprised.

St. John the Baptist Cathedral in Charleston. Many churches no longer leave their doors open on weekdays. We walked by, saw an open door and had this beauty all to ourselves. We lit a candle. Of course.

It’s what we do, need to do. Charlestonians on the street were masked more often than not.

St. Michael’s Episcopal Church is an iconic Charleston landmark.

Charleston’s remaining cobblestone streets still catch the eye.

One of my favorite Charleston finds from 3 years ago. An open gate and a garden path leading to who knows where. Irresistible. I followed the “yellow brick road” and it brought me to a centuries old burying ground for the Unitarian Church. Fascinating.

Gilded marina.
 
Golden marshes dominate the lowcountry waterscape.




















Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Jamestown Revisited

Image
We revisited one of our favorite historic haunts -- Jamestown -- and found it as fascinating as ever. Jamestown was established more than 400 years ago as the first permanent English settlement in the New World. But it's only been in the past 25 years that its secrets and treasures have come to light. Archaeologists began actively digging in the mid-90s to determine the location of the original fort that housed those first intrepid newcomers. Prior to that the assumption was the York River had swallowed all remains of the fabled site. That assumption would prove wrong. A handful of determined archaeologists discovered the outline of the wooden palisade by the presence of "stained" soil, indicating the location of post holes. That crude, high wooden fence surrounded the fort and today is reproduced so you can see just how small this first settlement was. Rustic buildings such as a barracks, a communal storeroom, the first of several church buildings and a graveyard were sn
Read more

Doors of Williamsburg

Image
I've always enjoyed the late fall and Christmas season in Williamsburg's historic district. The streets and byways are quieter. The houses and other buildings take on almost a sculptural quality as the trees lose their dense leaf cover and views stretch further than during any other season. But mostly I like the doors. Well, not the door itself (although I do appreciate those old latches, hinges and door knockers). It's the beautiful, organic holiday decor that catches my eye. Every year a fresh batch of gorgeous wreaths are created from real materials -- fir boughs, magnolia leaves and pods, dried flowers, wheat, cotton, shells, pine cones and fresh fruit including apples, lemons, oranges and cranberries. No plastic and polyester here. Even these natural-based wreaths are far more decorative than an 18th century local would have seen. But in our twinkle light and tinsel-encrusted world, they are a lovely change of pace.
Read more

Changing Course

Image
While sitting in Jacksonville this past winter we started to discuss whether we wanted to return to land -- at least for part of the year. We decided we did.  You may ask -- and others already have -- why the shift?  We thoroughly enjoy the liveaboard lifestyle. But winter is a challenging season. Heading south on the ICW to escape the worst of the cold is a great adventure that we have experienced twice. We enjoyed those extended cruises but it doesn't call us every year.  One year we stayed on the boat until Super Bowl Sunday early in February (brrrr!), then spent two months-plus traveling Florida and bordering states by car. In 2020, just as the pandemic was taking hold, we rented a rowhouse in Baltimore for the chilliest months. All were good options. But at our root we are homeowners. The boat is one home, but it doesn't suit year round. So we decided it was time to have a land option. On the return trip to Baltimore in late April we docked at York River Yacht Haven, a pre
Read more